Know the Karbi Tribe
The Karbis (Karbi:কাৰ্বি), mentioned as the Mikir in the Constitution Order of the Government of India, are one of the major indigenous ethnic tribe in Northeast India and especially in the hill areas of Assam. The great artist-scholar Bishnu Prasad Rabha refer to them as the Columbus of Assam. They prefer to call themselves Karbi, and sometimes Arleng (literally "man" in the Karbi language). The term Mikir is now considered derogatory. The closest meaning of mikir could said to be derived from "Mekar".
The Karbis are the principal indigenous tribal community in the Karbi Anglong district of Assam, a district administered as per the provisions of the Sixth Schedule of the Constitution of India, having an autonomous district of their own since 17 November 1951.Besides Karbi Anglong district, the Karbi-inhabited areas include Dima Hasao, Kamrup, Morigaon, Nagaon, Golaghat, Karimganj, Lakhimpur, Sonitpur and Biswanath Chariali districts of Assam; Balijan circle of Papumpare district in Arunachal Pradesh, Jaintia Hills, Ri Bhoi and East Khasi Hills districts in Meghalaya, and Dimapur District in Nagaland. Apart from Assam, where the Hill Karbis are recognised as Scheduled Tribes but not the Plain Karbi, the Hill Karbis in Meghalaya, Mizoram and Nagaland as Mikir but they are not able to obtain ST certificates due to their current name as Karbi. With a population of around 4 lakhs 6 thousand (406,000) as per 2001 Census, the Karbis constitute a large community.
The Karbis linguistically belong to the Tibeto-Burman group. The original home of the various people speaking Tibeto-Burman languages was in western China near the Yang-Tee-Kiang and the Howang-ho rivers and from these places they went down the courses of the Brahmaputra, the Chindwin and the Irrawaddy and entered India and Burma. The Karbis, along with others entered Assam from Central Asia in one of the waves of migrations.
The folk-lores of the Karbis, however, indicate that during the long past, once they used to live on the banks of the rivers the Kalang and the Kopili and the entire Kaziranga area, the famous National Park situated in Assam, was within their habitation. During the reigns of the Dimasa Kachari kings, they were driven to the hills and some of them entered into Jaintia hills, the erstwhile Jaintia Kingdom and lived under Jaintia suzerainty.
While a section of the Karbis remained in the Jaintia kingdom, others moved towards north-east by crossing the river Barapani, a tributary of the Kopili and entered into the Rongkhang Ranges. There they established their capital at a place called Socheng. The Karbis who migrated to the Ahom Kingdom had to face the Burmese invasion.
The Burmese who invaded Assam perpetrated inhumane oppression on the people. The Karbis took refuge in the deep jungles and high hills leaving their hearth and home in the sub-mountainous regions. In order to save themselves from the greedy eyes of the Burmese invaders, the young Karbi girls started to use a black line from the forehead to the chin which is known a “Duk” with a view to making them look ugly. While some of the Karbis migrated to Western Assam, some had crossed the Brahmaputra and settled in the north bank.
Most of the Karbis still practice their traditional belief system, which is animistic in Karbi Hong-Hari called "Hemphu-Mukrang", however, there are also Karbi Christians (some 15% according to census of India, 2011). The practitioners of traditional worship believe in reincarnation and honour the ancestors.
The Karbi's mainly speak their native language, i.e. The Karbi language and the Assamese language. However, Karbis are well versed in Assamese which they use as a lingua-franca to communicate with other indigenous Assamese communities. Many of the Plain Karbis even use Assamese as their mother tongue. Several Assamese loan words have made their way into the Karbi Language and this is apparent in most parts of Eastern Karbi Anglong. For example, Kaam (Assamese Origin word) is used in place of sai to mean 'Work'. The Karbis are well versed in other languages like Bengali Language, Hindi, etc. as well. There are also minute variations in native Karbi language that can be observed in different geographical regions inhabited by the Karbis. For example, the Plain Karbis and Hill Karbis.
Clan Edit
The Karbis are a Patrilineal society. They are composed of five major clans or Kur. They are Engti (Lijang), Terang (Hanjang), Inghi (Ejang), Teron (Kronjang) and Tungjang Timung which are again divided into many sub-clans. These clans are exogamous, in other words, marriages between members of the same clan are not allowed because they consider brother and sister among themselves. But marriage between cousin (marriage between a man and the daughter of his mother's brother) is highly favored and so is love marriage. Arranged marriages are rarely seen in modern Karbi society. After marriage, neither the bride nor the groom have to change their surname i.e. they retain their original surname due to the reason mentioned above that member of the same clan cannot marry each other. The children of the couple would inherit the surname of their father. The traditional system of governance is headed by the Lindok or the king, who is assisted by the Katharpo, the Dilis, the Habes and the Pinpos. These posts of administration, however, are now merely ceremonial with no real power.
The Karbis are a Patrilineal society. They are composed of five major clans or Kur. They are Engti (Lijang), Terang (Hanjang), Inghi (Ejang), Teron (Kronjang) and Tungjang Timung which are again divided into many sub-clans. These clans are exogamous, in other words, marriages between members of the same clan are not allowed because they consider brother and sister among themselves. But marriage between cousin (marriage between a man and the daughter of his mother's brother) is highly favored and so is love marriage. Arranged marriages are rarely seen in modern Karbi society. After marriage, neither the bride nor the groom have to change their surname i.e. they retain their original surname due to the reason mentioned above that member of the same clan cannot marry each other. The children of the couple would inherit the surname of their father. The traditional system of governance is headed by the Lindok or the king, who is assisted by the Katharpo, the Dilis, the Habes and the Pinpos. These posts of administration, however, are now merely ceremonial with no real power.
There are five clans in Karbi:
Lijang - Ingti
Hanjang - Terang
Ejang - Inghi
Kronjang - Teron
Tungjang - Timung
Festivals
The Karbis celebrate many festivals. Among them Hacha-Kekan,Chojun, Rongker, Peng Karkli, Thoi Asor Rit Asor, Botor Kekur are such festival held around the year and some of them at specific time of the year. Botor kekur is celebrated for the purpose to request to god to grace the earth with rain so that crops could be sown. Rongker is celebrated either on 5 January or on 5 February as per the convenience of the villager as a thanksgiving to god and asking their assurance to protect them from any evil harm that may happen to the whole village.
Hanjang - Terang
Ejang - Inghi
Kronjang - Teron
Tungjang - Timung
Festivals
The Karbis celebrate many festivals. Among them Hacha-Kekan,Chojun, Rongker, Peng Karkli, Thoi Asor Rit Asor, Botor Kekur are such festival held around the year and some of them at specific time of the year. Botor kekur is celebrated for the purpose to request to god to grace the earth with rain so that crops could be sown. Rongker is celebrated either on 5 January or on 5 February as per the convenience of the villager as a thanksgiving to god and asking their assurance to protect them from any evil harm that may happen to the whole village.
Death Edit
The Chomangkan (also known as "thi-karhi") is a festival unique to the Karbis. It is actually a ceremony performed by a family for the peace and the safe passage of the soul of family members who died recently or long ago and never to celebrate them again.
The Chomangkan (also known as "thi-karhi") is a festival unique to the Karbis. It is actually a ceremony performed by a family for the peace and the safe passage of the soul of family members who died recently or long ago and never to celebrate them again.
Clothes Edit
Karbis have a wide range of textiles which are produced with the help of the "traditional backstrap loom". There are gender and age specific clothing with culturally coded motifs which give a distinct appearance and meaning to the young men and women, married couple and older male and female folks who wear them. The male dress includes Choi Hongthor, Choi’‘ik, Choi’‘ang, Choikelok, Choi’‘umso, Pe-Seleng, Rikong, Poho, Chepan, Mulajin, Jambili, Jamborong, Vojaru ani, Pe’‘um, Pelu Amar and Sator etc.
Karbis have a wide range of textiles which are produced with the help of the "traditional backstrap loom". There are gender and age specific clothing with culturally coded motifs which give a distinct appearance and meaning to the young men and women, married couple and older male and female folks who wear them. The male dress includes Choi Hongthor, Choi’‘ik, Choi’‘ang, Choikelok, Choi’‘umso, Pe-Seleng, Rikong, Poho, Chepan, Mulajin, Jambili, Jamborong, Vojaru ani, Pe’‘um, Pelu Amar and Sator etc.
The backstrap loom consists of simple implements made from bamboo or wood such as Thening (Shed Rod), Thehu (The backstrap which is essentially a belt worn around the waist, made of animal skin or bamboo), Thepun (Rope for Measurement), Harpi (Batten), Therang (Loom Bar), Thelangpong (Heddle Rod), Uvek (Bamboo Bobbin), Ingthi (Reed/Comb), Hi’‘i (Heddle), Barlim (Pattern Sticks), Langvet (A Small piece of bamboo stick with one end fitted with a tuft of cotton dipped into water for sponging the woven part of the cloth), and Honthari (Bobbin) etc.
Karbi have traditional method of dying techniques to create the basic colors of red, black, yellow, blue (or green). Black colour is obtained from iron fillings boiled together with Siluka (Terminalia Chebula Retz). Male clothing is blackened by using this method. Bujir of the Sibu (a species of Strobilanthes) variety is used to make blue dye of female clothing. Sibu has varieties such as Burot, Buthe and Duri besides Bujir. Turmeric (Tharmit in the local dialect) is widely used for making 'ake’‘et' (yellow) dyes while laha (lac) is used for obtaining 'ake’‘er' (red) dyes. Chalavan (Letsea Sebifera Pers. or Sebifera Glutinosa Lour.) is also used as the source for 'ake’‘ik' (Black) dye.
The female folk are an ingenious lot. They have a variety of clothing such as Pini Kamplak (Open Ended Sarong), Jiso (Clothing covering the Breast area), Pekok (Open ended embroidered woven cloth wrapped around the female torso from shoulder to just about the knees), Vamkok (highly decorated waist belt with ends hung loose), Pe-Seleng (A long cloth wrapped around the torso by the females, also used by the males as a kind of dhoti), Jir’‘ik (Light blue colored clothing for the breast area), Piniku (White female bed sheet), Piba (blue colored cloth for carrying baby on the back), Mulajin and Jamborong (varieties of traditional bags).
Male custume Edit
Choihongthor
A jacket generally worn by married males which is slightly longer than other varieties such as Choi'ik (Black Jacket), Choi'ang (Red Jacket) and Choi-Kelok (White Jacket) or Choi'umso (Smaller Jacket). Married males generally wear the Choi'ang (Red jacket) while the Choi'ik (Black Jacket) is worn on festive occasions by young unmarried males over Choi'ik and Choi'Kelok. Choi-Kelok/Choi'umso are also worn by unmarried males. Choi'umso is a slightly shorter jacket with long braided lower fringes which is worn by unmarried makes in festive occasions and dances. Choi'ang is worn by married males, particularly those of higher status. The Recho (King), Pinpo (Courtiers), Habe (Governors of territorial divisions below the king and his courtiers), Rong Asar (Village Headman) and Arleng Kesar (Elderly Males) are entitled to wear this Choi'ang (Red Jacket) which carries with it status and prestige.
Peseleng
It is a long white woven cloth worn both by males and females as a kind of shawl. The Karbi Bachelors wear it as a dhoti and it is an exclusive costume for them. The cloth cannot be worn by married males. Karbi female folk wrap the cloth around their torso as well.
Rikong
"Ri" is cloth and "Kong" comes from "Jikong" (Firmiana Colorata) which is a slim piece of cloth worn by males which has varieties such as Rikong Bamon, Rikong Ke'er (Red Colored), and Rikong Kelok (White Colored). Rikong Bamon is worn by elderly males including priests. Rikong Ke'er and Rikong Kelok are distinctive as they carry woven motifs. The red variety is worn by elderly males while the white variety is worn by bachelors.
Poho
It is a woven turban, long enough to fold around the head and it is an exclusive male costume worn in festive and formal occasions such as Adam Asar (Traditional Karbi Weddings), Chojun (Ritual Ancestor Worship) or when an elder or a guest is offered a mandatory of homemade brew. Poho is part of a man's standard costume which has color significance. Bachelors wear the white colored Poho while the elderly males wear the red colored Poho. The white colored Poho carries more cultural and hierarchical significance which is worn by traditional dignitaries such as the Recho (King), Pinpo (Courtiers), Habe (Territorial Governors), and Rong Asar (Village Headman). Arleng Kesar (Elderly Males) would carry a red turban on their right shoulder as a fashion statement.
Chepan
It is an exclusive costume for bachelors which is a strip of woven cloth (slightly smaller than Poho in breadth but longer) with fringes decorated with beads and cowry shells, strapped around the waist. Chepan has other regional variations but are usually worn in the same fashion. A bachelor also wraps around a Chepan over his sator (like dhoti) which he flaunts in festivals and formal occasions.
Jambili
It is a piece of rectangular woven cloth which is folded with the four opposite corners and tied in such a way as to allow one arm to slip through and make it appear like a bag. In olden days, before the stitched modern bags appeared, males used Jambili as a multi-purpose bag which allowed the carrier freedom to shove in items from any of the four open sides.
Vojaru Ani
It is the tail of a 'racket tailed drongo', which is a highly prized gear for bachelors with statuses such as Klengsarpo (Chief) and Klengdun (Deputy) of the traditional Youth Dormitory or Jir. The racket tail gear carries specific cultural, ritual and hierarchical significance for the wearers.
Pelu
It is a thick woven rectangular cloth used as a traditional bed sheet enjoying high social status which is compulsory during traditional wedding and death rituals. Pelu is also used as a sack for carrying paddy during harvesting. A household is said to be orderly if it uses Pelu the whole year round. Pelu has gender specific identities. Pelu for male use if called Pelu Marlak and that for female is called Piniku. The motifs used in Pelu Marlak and Piniku are different and distinctive. Pelu Langdang is for general use and does not carry any significance. Male Pelu has no joint in the middle unlike the females. A Pelu also has directional indication which lets the user make out the aphutang (head) or kengtir (tail) of the Pelu which is important. At a traditional wedding, the male Pelu Marlak is laid on top of the female Piniku. On this arrangement, a male Seleng is laid on top of the female Seleng. The proceedings of a wedding is conducted with the bride and groom together.
Jarong/Jamborong
It is a trendy and decorated bag with a strap that the Karbi male wears over his left shoulder. The popularity of the Jarong has replaced the use of the Jambili. A Jarong or Jamborong may nowadays be used by both male and female.
Mulajin
It is a variation of the Jambili but bigger and longer in size allowing the carrier both ease and mobility while using the Mulajin
Female costume Edit
Pekok
It is part and parcel of a modern Karbi female costume. It is worn around the upper body with the upper ends of the garment separating on the right side and tied on the right shoulder to above knee length. It has many color-combinations and each one is thus named differently with varying cultural codes and significance. Pesarpi, a Pekok of red and black color combination is worn by older women while Peloru is a combination of white and off black (Greyish Hue). Pekok Jangphong is a mix of red and yellow color which is worn by unmarried women. Pekok Khonjari is worn both by young married and unmarried women.
Pini Kamphlak
It is the quintessential fashion statement for a Karbi woman irrespective of age or social positions. Pini Kamphlak is a rectangular piece of thick cloth worn over the lower body from the wasit till the calf. Pini Kamphlak, Pekok or an upper garment draped around the body, a Vamkok or belt with intricate designs and a blouse from the essential fashion of a Karbi woman. Pini Kamphlak has varieties such as Honki Ranchom, Aphidop, Kaparenso, and Pejangre etc. Pini Langpong is another variety made of the same fabric and thickness, but like a lungi, it is cylindrical.
Rumpan or Vambok
It is also an essential component of female clothing. it is almost like a belt and serves the same function to fasten the Pini (sarong) around the waist. It carries intricate motifs which only expert weavers can make. Besides, these motifs also carry geographical indicators and cultural codes. Vamkok has also many varieties such as Vamkok Ponglang with no motifs and Bermum which is the most decorated and hardest to weave.
Jir'ik
It is also a part of the traditional Karbi female costume. Jir'ik is smaller and shorter in size than the Piba and is used for carrying a baby on the back. An adolescent wears this beyond her marriage till she attains motherhood. It is not meant for elderly or aged women. At a funeral dance, young girls use this costume to cover their heads almost hiding their faces.
Jiso
It is a breast cloth. Women of all age, categories from adolescence to old age make use of it in olden days.
Piba
It is a baby sling or carrier. Generally, it is used by females, though there is no such hard and fast rule. Piba and Jir'ik are similar in function except that the latter is smaller and shorter.
Pe'um
It is a warm cloth worn during winter and is generally made from silk worms. Pe'um has varieties such as Pehonki aseleng, Pehonki arpum (two stitched together), and Rinditho which is divided into two segments with one segment in white while the other is a mix of white and red color. This design is also known as Pematvi because of the two segments which are distinctively separate and different. Pe'um is not gender sensitive and is worn by both males and females. Atahu Pangdeng is also a variety of Pe'um, also divided into color separated segments.
Choihongthor
A jacket generally worn by married males which is slightly longer than other varieties such as Choi'ik (Black Jacket), Choi'ang (Red Jacket) and Choi-Kelok (White Jacket) or Choi'umso (Smaller Jacket). Married males generally wear the Choi'ang (Red jacket) while the Choi'ik (Black Jacket) is worn on festive occasions by young unmarried males over Choi'ik and Choi'Kelok. Choi-Kelok/Choi'umso are also worn by unmarried males. Choi'umso is a slightly shorter jacket with long braided lower fringes which is worn by unmarried makes in festive occasions and dances. Choi'ang is worn by married males, particularly those of higher status. The Recho (King), Pinpo (Courtiers), Habe (Governors of territorial divisions below the king and his courtiers), Rong Asar (Village Headman) and Arleng Kesar (Elderly Males) are entitled to wear this Choi'ang (Red Jacket) which carries with it status and prestige.
Peseleng
It is a long white woven cloth worn both by males and females as a kind of shawl. The Karbi Bachelors wear it as a dhoti and it is an exclusive costume for them. The cloth cannot be worn by married males. Karbi female folk wrap the cloth around their torso as well.
Rikong
"Ri" is cloth and "Kong" comes from "Jikong" (Firmiana Colorata) which is a slim piece of cloth worn by males which has varieties such as Rikong Bamon, Rikong Ke'er (Red Colored), and Rikong Kelok (White Colored). Rikong Bamon is worn by elderly males including priests. Rikong Ke'er and Rikong Kelok are distinctive as they carry woven motifs. The red variety is worn by elderly males while the white variety is worn by bachelors.
Poho
It is a woven turban, long enough to fold around the head and it is an exclusive male costume worn in festive and formal occasions such as Adam Asar (Traditional Karbi Weddings), Chojun (Ritual Ancestor Worship) or when an elder or a guest is offered a mandatory of homemade brew. Poho is part of a man's standard costume which has color significance. Bachelors wear the white colored Poho while the elderly males wear the red colored Poho. The white colored Poho carries more cultural and hierarchical significance which is worn by traditional dignitaries such as the Recho (King), Pinpo (Courtiers), Habe (Territorial Governors), and Rong Asar (Village Headman). Arleng Kesar (Elderly Males) would carry a red turban on their right shoulder as a fashion statement.
Chepan
It is an exclusive costume for bachelors which is a strip of woven cloth (slightly smaller than Poho in breadth but longer) with fringes decorated with beads and cowry shells, strapped around the waist. Chepan has other regional variations but are usually worn in the same fashion. A bachelor also wraps around a Chepan over his sator (like dhoti) which he flaunts in festivals and formal occasions.
Jambili
It is a piece of rectangular woven cloth which is folded with the four opposite corners and tied in such a way as to allow one arm to slip through and make it appear like a bag. In olden days, before the stitched modern bags appeared, males used Jambili as a multi-purpose bag which allowed the carrier freedom to shove in items from any of the four open sides.
Vojaru Ani
It is the tail of a 'racket tailed drongo', which is a highly prized gear for bachelors with statuses such as Klengsarpo (Chief) and Klengdun (Deputy) of the traditional Youth Dormitory or Jir. The racket tail gear carries specific cultural, ritual and hierarchical significance for the wearers.
Pelu
It is a thick woven rectangular cloth used as a traditional bed sheet enjoying high social status which is compulsory during traditional wedding and death rituals. Pelu is also used as a sack for carrying paddy during harvesting. A household is said to be orderly if it uses Pelu the whole year round. Pelu has gender specific identities. Pelu for male use if called Pelu Marlak and that for female is called Piniku. The motifs used in Pelu Marlak and Piniku are different and distinctive. Pelu Langdang is for general use and does not carry any significance. Male Pelu has no joint in the middle unlike the females. A Pelu also has directional indication which lets the user make out the aphutang (head) or kengtir (tail) of the Pelu which is important. At a traditional wedding, the male Pelu Marlak is laid on top of the female Piniku. On this arrangement, a male Seleng is laid on top of the female Seleng. The proceedings of a wedding is conducted with the bride and groom together.
Jarong/Jamborong
It is a trendy and decorated bag with a strap that the Karbi male wears over his left shoulder. The popularity of the Jarong has replaced the use of the Jambili. A Jarong or Jamborong may nowadays be used by both male and female.
Mulajin
It is a variation of the Jambili but bigger and longer in size allowing the carrier both ease and mobility while using the Mulajin
Female costume Edit
Pekok
It is part and parcel of a modern Karbi female costume. It is worn around the upper body with the upper ends of the garment separating on the right side and tied on the right shoulder to above knee length. It has many color-combinations and each one is thus named differently with varying cultural codes and significance. Pesarpi, a Pekok of red and black color combination is worn by older women while Peloru is a combination of white and off black (Greyish Hue). Pekok Jangphong is a mix of red and yellow color which is worn by unmarried women. Pekok Khonjari is worn both by young married and unmarried women.
Pini Kamphlak
It is the quintessential fashion statement for a Karbi woman irrespective of age or social positions. Pini Kamphlak is a rectangular piece of thick cloth worn over the lower body from the wasit till the calf. Pini Kamphlak, Pekok or an upper garment draped around the body, a Vamkok or belt with intricate designs and a blouse from the essential fashion of a Karbi woman. Pini Kamphlak has varieties such as Honki Ranchom, Aphidop, Kaparenso, and Pejangre etc. Pini Langpong is another variety made of the same fabric and thickness, but like a lungi, it is cylindrical.
Rumpan or Vambok
It is also an essential component of female clothing. it is almost like a belt and serves the same function to fasten the Pini (sarong) around the waist. It carries intricate motifs which only expert weavers can make. Besides, these motifs also carry geographical indicators and cultural codes. Vamkok has also many varieties such as Vamkok Ponglang with no motifs and Bermum which is the most decorated and hardest to weave.
Jir'ik
It is also a part of the traditional Karbi female costume. Jir'ik is smaller and shorter in size than the Piba and is used for carrying a baby on the back. An adolescent wears this beyond her marriage till she attains motherhood. It is not meant for elderly or aged women. At a funeral dance, young girls use this costume to cover their heads almost hiding their faces.
Jiso
It is a breast cloth. Women of all age, categories from adolescence to old age make use of it in olden days.
Piba
It is a baby sling or carrier. Generally, it is used by females, though there is no such hard and fast rule. Piba and Jir'ik are similar in function except that the latter is smaller and shorter.
Pe'um
It is a warm cloth worn during winter and is generally made from silk worms. Pe'um has varieties such as Pehonki aseleng, Pehonki arpum (two stitched together), and Rinditho which is divided into two segments with one segment in white while the other is a mix of white and red color. This design is also known as Pematvi because of the two segments which are distinctively separate and different. Pe'um is not gender sensitive and is worn by both males and females. Atahu Pangdeng is also a variety of Pe'um, also divided into color separated segments.
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